I have to admit that Drummoyne is not the first place I’d think of to venture to for brunch, being the inner westie-ite that I am. But Copo is such a fine cafe that I’m more than glad I bothered to make the trek across the bridge. Once I find it, that is … While there’s a sign for the cafe on Victoria Road and its address is listed as 135 Victoria, Copo is actually somewhat confusingly located a block behind on Formosa Street. Go figure.
Anyway, I have it on good authority that its potato hash is magical so I’m hot on the trail.
I know I’ve found the spot when I round the corner and gorgeous brunch-is-cooking smells waft towards me from literally a block away. Inside, large louvered windows are thrown open onto huge succulent-filled window boxes, lending the space a light, airy, distinctly Mediterranean feel. Sadly, the rooftop garden is packed to capacity, but I’m happy enough to take a seat at one of the large wooden tables downstairs.
Campos coffee on the menu and a saucer of pink sea salt on the table promise good things to come, and those promises deliver. The house-smoked trout served on potato hash with a fried egg comes sprinkled with herbs and accompanied by good sourdough and a pat of butter.
The potato hash does indeed seem to have been conjured up by a chef with an enchanted touch (as does the trout); it is quite simply the best I’ve ever had.
The rest of the breakfast and lunch offerings look no less enticing. The South American–style baked beans with chorizo, bacon and toast on the next table look and smell so good, I’ll definitely be crossing the bridge again some time soon to try them.
135 Victoria Rd, Drummoyne
(02) 9719 9057
Open Mon–Fri 7am–3pm, Sat–Sun 8am–3pm